We left Monterey on Monday, riding south on Highway 1, where the Pacific Ocean continued to hug the cliffs of the coast. Big Sur, our next stop, is located about 45 miles from Monterey in the Los Padres National Forest.
Ghost Tree is one of the prime locations for big wave surfing, the jagged branches give justice to the name.
Alex and I left before everyone, hoping to find a campsite and settle in for the evening. We were given directions from a cycling shop employee, who was nice enough to show us a route that would help us avoid Highway 1 for the stretch to Carmel-by-the-Sea. We were told to take a road called 17 Mile Drive, through Carmel and out onto Highway 1. We saw Ghost Tree, a hallowed surf spot for some of the best big wave surfers in the world. The name fit the area. The cliffs was littered with jagged trees while the fog created an eerie sense of menace in a section of Monterey Bay where waves can reach up to 50 feet high when they break.
After two hours, we had rode through several golf courses, including the legendary Pebble Beach, before we looped back up to the same spot we started.
The road was not called 17 Mile Drive for nothing and Alex and I had managed to ride a huge circle in those two hours. Distraught and frustrated, we sat at the side of the road hoping to figure out what to do when Elliott and Will came riding out to where we sat. Our detour through the ritziest golf course in the country made for a good laugh and an extra 20 miles on top of the 35 we had to do.
Highway 1 produced beautiful scenes of the ocean break along the cliffs of the Pacific Coast as we rode to Big Sur.
We split off into pairs for the ride to Big Sur. Elliott and I led the pack for the ride, pedaling at a consistent speed of approximately 16 miles an hour. Like the rest of the California Coast, the highway to Big Sur was set in rolling hills and a shoulder inches wide at certain points. This stretch of the Central Coast has been some of the most beautiful riding we have experienced. You almost become adjusted to the magnificent scenery. From the panoramic grey-blue skies and thin white clouds across the horizon, to the beaches, trees and mountains which surround the highway, it took all my effort to pay attention to the road and not the stunning views.
Elliott and I arrived in Big Sur by 6:00 p.m. We had calculated we were far enough ahead of everyone to sit down for a beer. Luckily enough, the pub we found was right in the middle of happy hour, and a pint of their best-selling Hemp Ale from Humboldt Brewing Company was a tasty reward for an afternoon of some good cycling. The beer was dark and delicious, but not overwhelming in the slightest.
Our free campsite, 200 yards from Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. We fell asleep to the rushing sound of waves crashing on the beach below.
Will and Alex arrived just as Elliott and I were ready to leave, and I decided to humor Alex and sit with him for another Hemp Ale. Will and Elliott rode the last 10 miles to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, where we would camp for the evening. After another pint and some nachos, Alex and I left the pub to finish the ride.
Halfway through the ride fog began to roll in along the road. Alex and I were engulfed in a damp white cloud as crickets began to chirp, signaling the time when day turns to night. For one third of the ride, we rode in the near dark to the campsite. Elliott and Will had found a cozy spot 200 yards from the entrance to the park. Some passersby had suggested they take a look at it if they didn’t want to pay for camping.
Our ride to Big Sur had been amazingly hyped up as several people told us prior to the ride it was “the most amazing place ever.” I must say, Sur did not disappoint, however it reminded me a lot of the Redwood Forests of Northern California, which I still remember vividly.
Alex and I were relieved to find the crew and we set up shop to prepare for a 100-mile ride the next morning to San Luis Obispo.
Elliott and I destroyed the ride from Big Sur, arriving in SLO in six hours and 30 minutes. We worked as a great team and each took turns setting the pace and creating a good draft for each other. It was a hard ride, but we stayed as consistent as possible through the uphill battles and eventually the flats coming in to San Luis Obispo.
A young lady named Alisa, who we met in Monterey through Will’s friend Alex, and her roommate, Jamie, were kind enough to let us sleep in their yard and of course we obliged. The most comforting feeling is riding into a town you’ve never been and knowing you have a cozy place to go. It made finishing the ride that much more rewarding. Thank you Alisa and Jamie! You guys rock!
