Board meetings with legends

Board meetings with legends

I consider myself to be a wannabe surfer. I’ve spent a good amount of time in waves of California and Central America, but I am by no means any kind of expert in the sport…Not even close. I am fascinated by riding waves though, and I aspire to become savvy enough in the sport so that one day I will be able to ride in overhead tubes. During our time in Santa Cruz, I was able to get out and surf some unexpectedly awesome waves at Pleasure Point. Sets came in that had head-high faces (unusual this time of year), and I hooted as I rode them, making turns to dodge the kelp beds. As I sat and spoke with some locals who were nice enough to let me surf with them, a sea otter ate a crab only a few feet away from me.

Is it the tranquility between the intensity of surfing that is alluring, or is it the other way around?

When I was working in Santa Cruz, I was given the opportunity to pick the minds of surf legends who have not only had the experience of being barreled in massive tubes, but who have also ridden wave faces 50 feet high.

Richard Schmidt and Ed Guzman are big wave surf pioneers. They were some of the first guys to be out on the frigid, massive walls of Mavericks and Ghost Tree. Their love for the sport has not only brought them to the biggest surf breaks in the world, but it has also inspired them to teach newcomers about the beauty of surfing. The Richard Schmidt Surf School and Club-Ed Surf Camps are two great companies who specialize in teaching all kinds of people how to surf. I relished the time I spent talking with them, and hearing stories of what led them into a life dedicated to surfing.

Ed was nice enough to let us stay at his surf camp, at a beautiful campground just south of Santa Cruz. We spent an evening at his house, where he shared stories of surfing the giant waves of central California. He brought us into his board locker, where he showed us his 30+ collection of surfboards designed specifically for him, to surf in various waves of all sizes. I learned that for tow-in surfing, boards actually have led weights placed inside them, to keep them from literally flying into the air as they rip down five-story faces. It was motivating and inspiring to look upon the equipment that allows man to fly down waves of such extreme magnitude.

During a surf session with Ed and his students, I spoke with him about what we are doing at SWAE Sports. Like him, we are trying to get people outside, to experience new and exciting sports and challenges that bring you into the outdoors. We sat on our surfboards and talked, and during the conversation we would take turns riding waves.

“It’s part of the board meeting” Ed would claim, as he directed me to paddle for a wave… Just another day in the life of a SWAE Adventurist.

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